Córdoba

Andalucia’s Golden Triangle, Part 1

Oh, Andalucia. How can you be so incredibly wonderful? When we were planning our trip to Spain, I wanted the authentic experience. I wanted to feel the culture and truly see the way Spanish people live and have lived historically. I wanted to taste Spanish tapas and hear Spanish music and see palaces that have been left unmodernized, just as they were hundreds of years ago. So I started doing some reading, and everything pointed to Andalucia (Spain’s southern region).

In my eyes, the best representation of true, authentic Spanish culture is found in the South. A beautiful, magical place where orange trees line the narrow, cobblestone streets. Where the influence of the Moors (the predominant inhabitants of Southern Spain from the 8th - 15th centuries) is still visible at every turn. Where flamenco dancing is still a treasured art form. Where tapas culture thrives.

A trip to Andalucia is truly unforgettable, and as I said in my previous Spain and Portugal Itinerary, I intend to sway you into placing this region at the top of your Spain wish list. If you aren’t researching the South at all, You. Are. Missing. Out. Period.

In the following series, I will discuss three southern cities often referred to as the “Golden Triangle” of Spain, and as we apparently love a reference to a gilded shape, see my Iceland’s Golden Circle post, we decided to visit all three, starting with spending one day in Córdoba. So let me attempt to show you why we so loved Andalucia, and in specific, Córdoba, Sevilla, and Granada.

How to get to Cordoba

Train tickets can be purchased directly from Renfe, Spain’s major rail company. Trains run pretty regularly to and from Madrid and Seville, making this an easy day trip to do from either city. We stopped over for the day on our way through from Madrid to Seville.

Pro tip: Renfe often sells train tickets very last minute. Do not panic if your tickets aren’t available at the time they are predicted to be released. This is common. Train tickets do not often sell out for travel between these cities and can be purchased several days in advance (or even day of!).

Things to do in Cordoba

Calleja de las Flores

If I was to describe Córdoba in one word, I’d say flowers. Odd. I know. But, one of the most charming things about this Andalucian city, the first you will hit on a train ride to the South, is the abundance of potted flowers in the streets. They even have an adorable, little corridor named for them, Calleja de las Flores (Flower Alley). The streets are narrow and charming, and the neighbourhoods are small and easy to wander.

Narrow street in Cordoba, decorated with clay pots of flowers.

Orange trees in Cordoba. Oranges are bitter in taste.

Calleja de las Flores, Flower Alley in English, is a pretty decorated street in downtown Cordoba.

It’s easy to get to Córdoba from Madrid. We took the high speed train service and hopped off to spend a full day on our way through to Sevilla. It took only 1 hour and 45 minutes this way, a car trip that would take 4 and a half hours!

Pro tip: The bus station across from the train station stows baggage, so you can easily do this as a stopover. Storage lockers are available to the right of the entrance, or you can drop your items off with the guard just outside the locker room. There is a small fee for this service.

Close up of flower pots hanging on narrow Calleja de las Flores.

The walk downtown takes about 40 minutes, but taxis are available in abundance outside of the train station. Just hop in a cab and tell the driver you are heading to “the Mezquita”.

They will expect this, because no trip to Córdoba is complete without swinging by the Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba, the city’s biggest attraction.

The Mezquita

The Mosque Cathedral of Córdoba (or Mezquita for short) is an incredible example of Moorish architecture. The Moors were the Muslim peoples of Spain who arrived in the 8th century. The Mezquita was constructed by them.

When Spain fell back under Christian rule, centuries later, a Roman Catholic Cathedral was placed in its centre. A very interesting combination of two different styles of architecture is the result.

Moorish arches, carvings, and calligraphy mixed with Christian symbolism, stained glass, and a grand altar. The Mosque Cathedral itself, and the Historic Centre of Córdoba are on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites.

View of the altar room inside the Mosque Cathedral of Cordoba.

Arches and carvings inside the Mosque Cathedral of Cordoba.

It is hard to describe the grandiosity of this building. Incredibly tall ceilings, massive pipe organs, and rows of arches, that sometimes seem not to end, fill the interior. It takes at least a couple of hours to wander and appreciate it.

Roman Bridge of Córdoba

Directly to the South of the Mezquita, the Roman Bridge of Córdoba is a great place to continue to roam. Originally designed by the Romans, it was constructed in the 1st Century, and has since been remodelled many times, most notably by the Moors to include its many arches.

A wide footbridge ending in a watch tower, it is an excellent place to take an easy walk and snap a quick photo of the Historic City Centre from afar.

View of the Historic City centre from across the Roman Bridge in Cordoba.

Calleja de las Flores and similar streets for wandering can be found to the North of the Mezquita, so you will get to see the entire perimeter. Be sure to take note of the doorways and crumbling arches, exposed to the elements, on the outside of the building.

A weather worn door on the outside of the Mezquita. A sign of the long history of this building.

One final piece of advice… Córdoba gets hot. Very, very hot. During our visit, in the first week of June, it was nearly 40 degrees celsius here. I did not find this as unbearable as I find the heat we get at home on the East Coast in summer, as the humidity was considerably lower than here.

Nonetheless, plan accordingly if traveling at this time of the year. Bring water. Find shade. Take a siesta at one of the many tapas restaurants in the early afternoon (might I recommend Bodegas Mezquita).

Córdoba’s temperatures rival Sevilla, which is also known for extreme heat, and is the next city we will visit and one you absolutely MUST read about. Or feel free to skip ahead to Granada, if you prefer! Either way, I hope you enjoyed spending one day in Córdoba with us!

Adios,

Hill XO

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